A game of bife at Praça do São Salvador

Hi all,

On Sunday I walked over to Praça São Salvador, two blocks or so from my apartment building. Each Sunday morning beginning about 11:00, musicians gather under the gazebo and play chorrinho, a traditional, sad Portuguese folk music. It isn’t my favorite, but I enjoy going just for the atmosphere. It’s a true Brazilian gathering, young and old alike, and few gringos to be seen. Buy a beer, find a spot to sit, and crowd watch with the music in the background.

Unfortunately, this last Sunday it rained off and on throughout the morning, and I didn’t stroll over until about 2:00, only to find that the rains had caused the musicians to pull up stakes early. Here they said, “Cariocas e chuva nao combinam”, which would translate as “Cariocas and rain don’t mix.”

Although it is true that Cariocas don’t like the rain, it’s also true that they are some of the most irrepressibly optimistic people you will ever meet, and so there were knots of folks scattered across the square, waiting for the sprinkles to stop and perhaps a resumption of the music.

But the clouds had other plans, and the rains grew steadily heavier. I found a fairly dry spot in the gazebo. As the rains continued to pick up, I found myself surrounded by an increasing number of new friends, also looking to stay as dry as possible.

Four of the group sat near me and began playing a card game they called Bife. It looked much like gin rummy to me, but I think there may also be rules about which cards you can discard which are similar to Uno or Crazy Eights.

What was interesting about the game was the deck that it was played with. The suits were marijuana leaves, bongs, joints (blunts if you prefer), and mushrooms. (They thought it very funny when I explained the term “roach”.)

Anyway, I found the whole affair amusing: Gathered there under the shelter, playing cards and joking while waiting for the rains to pass. A passerby stopped to watch and was quickly accepted into the game. Cariocas are an exceedingly welcoming people. (Receptivo, they say here.)

The gang also agreed when I asked if I could film. Below are a few snippets, not really apropos of anything except that they represent the kind of pleasant unplanned interlude that so often happens here on a Sunday afternoon.

Bife

Soon the sun returned, and my friends took the opportunity to move along. But I will remember our few minutes together and smile. Thanks, guys.

At mais, guys

PS Marijuana (called maconha here) is illegal in Brazil. I am not sure how strict the penalties are for its use, but I would strongly suggest that you avoid it and stick with beer and caipirinhas.

 

Aos meus amigos brasileiros do gazebo: Podem entrar em contato comigo a: clites.john@gmail.com. Abraços

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