Friday Postcard: The Serra Gaúcha, Rio Grande do Sul, southern Brazil
Posted in My Trips, Portuguese Lessons, Travel Recommendations on 05. Mar, 2010
Hi all,
The southernmost state of Brazil is Rio Grande do Sul, or “Big River of the South”. In its northeastern corner you’ll find the Serra Gaúcha, which could be translated as the “Cowboy Mountain Range”. Gaúcho is simply the Portuguese version of the Spanish “gaucho”, the cowboy of the Argentine pampas, and “gaúcha” is merely the feminine form. This is not the Brazil of The Travel Channel or Frommer’s Budget Travel magazine. Here you’ll find soft hills reminiscent of the Smoky Mountains, but also younger, ragged canyons to match anything the Rockies can offer.
In the Serra Gaúcha lie the sister towns of Gramado and Canela. If you should find yourself in the south of Brazil, perhaps visiting the coastal paradise of Florianopolis, then do yourself a favor and detour over.
Gramado (which means “grass” or “lawn”) is the more glamorous of the sisters. Here are chic shops and expensive cafes. Spend a couple of hours trying on stylish leather jackets and boots, then rest your feet and savor your espresso at a wrought-iron table on the flagstone sidewalk.
Canela (meaning “cinnamon” – no one seems to know where the name originated), by comparison, is the simpler, but also alluring, little sister, laid out in European tradition around a little town square. Rather than try to compete with Gramado, Canela has styled herself as the base for outdoor adventures. From Canela, you can enjoy cycling, fishing, rafting, “arvorismo” (rappelling, zip lines, walking from treetop to treetop), nature photography, or simply strolling through beautiful countryside.
Near Canela and Gramado is the Parque do Caracol, which is much prettier than its name (“Snail Park”) would indicate. Bring comfortable walking shoes and a camera. A picnic lunch is a nice addition.
The people are as beautiful and welcoming as the scenery. Primarily German and northern Italian, with a bit of Swiss, Polish, and Russian tossed in, they are attractive, but friendlier than you’ll find in some of the cities of the south. If you are not in a hurry, they’ll have time to chat with you, answering questions and also asking you about your hometown.
Brazil has wonderful beaches, no question. But if your timetable allows it, make the detour to the Serra Gaúcha – the Other Brazil.
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Hey John, good to read these posts, reminds me of home (I’m from Rio Grande do Sul, now living in Canada). Just thought of letting you know you should check Itaimbezinho Canyon when you have a chance. I’ve been there, it’s worth the trip.
http://cambaradosul.tur.br/pontos_turisticos/cambara_do_sul-21-1-4.html
http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itaimbezinho
I love that you posted this! I stumbled upon this while researching for a computer project about Brazil. I spent the last year in Canela as an exchange student and nobody really understands just how gorgeous and understated this place is. It was nice to read about it being appreciated!!! I completely agree that it’s woth the trip down there as I plan on returning sometime soon! The pictures are gorgeous and I found myself yelling at the computer that I’ve been there and have similar pictures. So just wanted to let you know that this put a smile on my face and I appreciate it!
Hi Kaitlin, so glad that you enjoyed the post. Canela is a favorite place for Paulistas to visit, as I’m sure you know, and many Cariocas know it or at least OF it. But almost no Americans have ever heard of it. I’d visited there several times before I found it. // I haven’t done mch traveling through Brazil since I moved here, but hope to change that! // Thanks for the comment and come back soon – to my blog and to Brasil! bjs